On Saturday
My clock was already past midnight of early Saturday morning, and there were no signs of lights brighten up my surroundings. My pacer, Meghan Arbogast, and I continued power-walking uphill for long 8.9 mile stretch of uneventful jeep road section to approach the Governor basin Aid Station (AS). Despite 3000 ft gain from the town of Ouray (7700 ft) to Governor basin AS (10780 ft), it took me more than 2 hours. I knew this would be the longest uphill section for whole way up to Kroger's Canteen (13100 ft) with total miles of 12.1 miles, but I wished to be little faster and better performance to gain the milage. When I finally arrived at Governor basin AS, I even did not realized about 18 hours elapsed already for 64.5 miles since the start. I had some vegetable mix soup and breads filled my stomach with warmth. Surprisingly, my stomach was not acting bad at all even after 64.5 miles in the race. Based on my two previous 100 mile races in 2012, I was always lost my appetite to any AS foods at this point. This was so unlike me and my first time ever to experience being healthy stomach and peeing normally.
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| Long jeep road toward to Governor basin |
The next 3.2 mile section with 2320ft elevation gain was never had a chance to study earlier. The unknown territory in the night running is much scared, and my confidence level was dropped. Shortly after crossing the small stream of cold water on the jeep road, my pacer and I were lost the way at the small junction that I could not find any course markings nearby. As I expected to face this kind of minor problem, our decision was to go back to the last AS for gathering correct information rather than getting us completely lost in the mountain. We decided to go backtracking the course to last aid station that hopefully find us the right way. Luckily, Rob Youngren was right behind and navigated for us. He had done this section before and guided us to back on the track to the Kroger's Canteen. The course marking we found was way up from the last confused junction. We chatted with Rob a little bit, and he mentioned that the last 500 feet of steep chin scraper ascend feels like a lasting forever to get to the Kroger's Canteen AS. He gradually pulled himself away from me, and he was already 100 yards ahead of the jeep road. I was bit too tired to keep my pace up with him, and soon I lost the sight of his headlamp anywhere nearby. With exception of two small headlamps between me and Meghan, there were no lights surrounding in the deep dark space.
Although the course markings used at Hardrock were reflectible to beam of light, I could not find any of these as soon as hit the steep chin scraper section. My navigation skill was limited by following some foot steps of trail-shoe tracks on the wet muddy ground, which was hopefully the right call. Meghan asked me from few feet behind me that "Are you sure this is right way?" Although I did not have any confidence to answer that question, I forcefully answered, "I think this seems right way because there were bunch of foot traffics on the ground." Those foot steps went straight up and disappeared, and I continued to ascend on loose muddy stairway like trail. My foot placements were bad enough to slip few times, like a two steps up and one step down. Even though I was moving like a turtle, my breathing got harder and shorter than ever before. I saw a small ledge of bedrock within 7 ft of distance above me and hoped to rest myself there for catching my breath a bit. I was already exhausted to continue stepping forward on this steep uphill. The flat rock ledge was within few more steps of reach, but I got light-headed myself to see a bunch of flashing stars on my eyesights. This made me losing my momentum, and my center of gravity shifted from front to backward. I was started to losing control and my hip gradually pulling my whole body downward. Although there were no voice to scream in the dark, I was screaming and alarming in my head.
"Oh, this is bad, this is bad, this is bad, stop, stop, stop!"
All I hoped was not to fall and tumble down the steep downhill to accidentally hit my pacer where she was only 10 ft behind me. My last chance was to grab my trekking poles very tightly and knee down to the ground, and I held my weight shifting in balanced position to bring myself back to forward position. I somehow managed myself to avoid the worst case scenario and waited for few more seconds to disappear flashing stars on my sight. I finally stepped forward and got on the ledge of giant bedrock to rest myself with huge relief. I caught up my breath for few more minutes to reduce my pounding heart rate and sweating from fear. I looked up the steep hill hopefully see the summit or brightness from AS, but the beam of headlamp was only shown a bunch of boulders nearby and disappeared into the dark. I regain my motivation to move forward pushing my quad muscle hard. When I finally reached the false summit, the blight light illuminated tiny silhouette of people who were moving around at the top of ledge. I saw the Kroger's Canteen AS. The summit was near. The AS crew retrieved my name somehow, maybe I answered myself to one of the AS Crew asked for. I could not remember. But he cheered up with ringing cow bell and "Come on Mikio, there are Pierogies, a hot soups, and a shot of whiskey for you!" Did I hear a word "whiskey?" I must be hallucinating because it is middle of night. The AS crews' encouragement with ringing cowbells hard and cheering strong voices gave me willpower to keep my legs forward. However, I tried hard to get to the AS as fast as possible, but it took me 8 minutes to move just 200 m (640 ft) of distance. It was strange feeling when you see the AS so nearby, yet I had full effort to move forward for so slow, like a battery operated toy running out of juice.
When we finally arrived the summit of Kroger's Canteen, Scott Mills, RD of San Diego 100, offered us to sit and covered with down sleeping bags to warm us up. He gave me a hot vegetable soup, and Roch Horton, who is 10 times Hardrock 100 finisher, offered me pierogies. The soup and pierogies warm me up so good, and I drunk a little bit of coke to refresh my dried cotton mouth and caffeine kept me energize a bit. This tiniest and one of the hardest locations among all AS of the race had the best and most wonderful AS crews to welcome incoming runners, which made me even more appreciated how thoughtful and care givers are there for this race. They offered me so much more than I ever imagined. They must haul up whole gears, water, and foods probably more than 500 lb. to keep us runners stay in warm from blowing cold wind in the middle of night. Soon, Scott told us that "Sorry to break you the deal, but you have two minutes to get your ass up and out from this AS because another runner is already coming up." Bummer. It was like a kick'n us out from the best Bar in town preparing for their new V.I.P. customer.
AS crew successfully kick our butt out from the Kroger's Canteen to return the race. As soon as left the AS, howling winds slapped my face stealing warmth just regained from the last AS. That made us moving fast descending steep sandy rocky surface. Feet sunk a bit on the soft ground felt nice. The 5 mile descend to the town of Telluride AS went by fast even though it took an hour and half for me. We were descend about 2/3rd of distance between the last AS to Telluride, I spotted large golden colored eyes in the bush reflected by my headlamp. Clearly these eyes were not from deer. The distance of both eyes were too close. I can almost tell that it wasn't like herbivorous animals. I tried not think too much for that creature. It maybe a bear or a big cat. We left that location uneventfully and rough jeep road continued down.
By the time I got the town of Telluride, whole town was sleeping except few aid station crews were still awaked for helping out in coming runners. I had my new pair of socks and shoes at this AS. When I took off my shoes and socks, my right toe was already in black and plumped. The toe with dark purple bloody color looks more painfully than feel. I did stub my toe with needle to depressurize accumulated blood out from it. My blood was shooting out few feet as soon as I took the needle out from the toe, like a splatter horror movie. I remembered that old lady near me was looked at my face with grotesque expression. I did not care much but apologized her for being uncomfortable. Depressurize toe looked much better, and another volunteer guy gave me a magic of duct tape application. You cannot underestimate how versatile the duct tape is for ultra-trail runners. Duct taped big toe held well for the rest of my race without peeling my big toe nail off. One complain I had was that poor job of duct taping made my second toe blistered by scratching. One of AS crews brought me a thick potato soup and quesadilla but my cotton mouth refused to eat that. I tried to wash food in my mouth with more coke and gave myself up having food at this AS. While Meghan and Meghan Hicks exchanged greetings, my face expression was probably exhausted, and Meghan H. listened from Meghan A. what my conditions now and underwent after Ouray AS. I remembered Meghan H. cared me with a word, "Well, hopefully you will get back your energy once the sun is up." That word was so true. The daylight will be awaken my body biologically and mentally. And that word gave me some hope to fight two more hours of darkness not being a stubborn runner .
The trail section of Wasatch from Telluride had an another big climb, which was well studied earlier with Darla, Chris, and myself before the race. My memories for conjunction at the trails were still fresh to remember most of them in the dark. While I kept moving my legs to charge the uphill, I saw James Varner, who just past me at Telluride AS. I saw him at Sherman AS way earlier in the race. "How are you James? You came back really great." "Yeah, I have not seen you since right after we left from Sherman AS, but I think I need to eat more so I gonna stop here for food." "O.k, see you at the finish line." He looked bit tired, but he was uplifted to keep his motivation high. I thought he'll kiss the rock this time.
While I continued charging uphill to aim the Oscar's Pass, I have started to feel minor burn in my lungs. The steep uphill force me to breath harder and shorter than normally I do, and this made hurt my chest. I needed to stop for moment to catch my breath and hoping my chest pain goes away. I tried not cough much but thick mucus stuck in my throat, so minimal cough to spit these out of my system. Wasatch meadow, where was an another beautiful wild flowering meadow, was nearby, but I had to push one more time to attack this steep uphill. Although uncomfortable sensation on my throat and chest did not go away, I kept my head down and continued power-walking with my granny gear. The eastern sky was gradually blighted up orange to thin pink, and I can be able to see seep of sun light through the cloud at the top of the hill. We were still in the shady cold area to feel wetness from morning dew on the grass and wild flowers. The reflection of the sun light on the eastern surface of the mountain looked so shiny, and almost I can feel the warmth of sun by just looking at it. I remembered the word from Meghan H. earlier at Telluride AS that really meant me awakening my body. It was indescribable how, but my energy level came back as soon as I was at sunny Oscar's Pass. The time for resurrection to my body and soul. It's a new day! The time was just past 7 am, and I was ready for more jogging down the rocky descent to Chapman Gulch AS.
Until recently, my fellow ultra trail runners from Australia, Brendon Davis and Shona Stephenson, described about running in the night. Both are experienced ultra runners who were even experienced some impatience, tiredness, and hallucination sometimes from the night running. The night running may increase potential fell down more, and it was likely caused by tiny obstacles like twigs, rocks, small tree roots rather than that you can obviously visible objects by your headlamp like big tree roots, rocks, and logs. Because of our body wants to naturally shut down for requiring some rest (sleep) during the night, the lack of sleep may intensify use of mental awareness to your surroundings in close range. Unfortunately that makes more mentally tiring and lose your awareness much quicker. Fighting for sleepiness by forcefully insist on your body (or muscle) to keep awake but not your brain. I think running durning the night needs to take some practices in training to know how your body responded by this kind of stress. Also the limiting visibility makes my run much slower than during a day time. I guess strong fast runners may have a high level of self control to battle against sleepiness and lacking visibility. I wondered top runners would even slowing them down their momentum and speed at night.
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| Look over Oscar's Pass from Grant-Swamp pass |
We arrived at Chapman Gulch AS just 8 am for quick stop and go. Candice Burt was asked me about where James was, and I replied her he must be just behind us because we past him on the ascent of Wasatch Trail. We continued on the trail to famous grant-swamp pass. I was already thinking in my head at this point, "two more major ascends and done. Let's finish it." My whole body was probably tired still, and my legs were heavy and painful, but I had one goal to focus myself at this point. Kiss the rock. This most simple goal gave me uplifting energy even more, and I did not feel much of the pain went through my legs and lungs. We approach the final ascent of grant-swamp pass where it look like a 35 degree wall of scree and rock face. At the same time, Jamil Coury (I would call him the man of Fenix) just pass me by and kept his light legs to climb up the wall very quickly. I was so impressed him and followed the way he approached his ascend. I was unexpectedly climbed well to get up the top of grant-swamp pass.
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| Famous Joel Zucker Memorial at Grant-Swamp pass |
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| Long descent to KT |
The time was almost 10 am, long descend from the pass to KT AS went effortlessly, and my leg endured downhill without any problems. I was smiling on my face thinking about the finish. When I arrived at KT AS, I had vegetable soup and PBJ while my pacer to catch me up. When my pacer arrived at KT, she said she'll find a ride back to Silverton and was done today. We exchange words and promised to see her at the finish line. I had only one more big climb to go, and stormy dark clouds were just started to roll in the Cataract-Porcupine pass. Time to go. Passing a cold stream felt good on my legs, and long ascend went o.k. By the time I was almost near the top of the pass, the rain became a hail, which was first time hailed on me for last two weeks of stay in this area. Thunder and lightnings were on few miles away from me. I thought it was the last slap on my face by nature to show some temperament character. The heavy rain/hail storm lost the sight at the meadow section toward to Putnam-Cataract Ridge. I kept move my legs nothing stops me at that point. My promise to finish the race was much stronger will than one stormy weather. Luckily the lightnings were still away from me, so the moving was the right call.
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| Beautiful meadows at Cataract-Porcupine pass to Putnam-Cataract Ridge |
When I arrived at Putnam basin on 1:25 pm, the weather already turned nice summer day mixing with few clouds. Aid station crews asked about any help, but I did not want to lose my momentum and focus, so I had one gulp of coke and continued on downhill. One of AS crew said that "you can catch up with a guy just passed by, um, maybe 20 minutes ago? But he was not look so good and walking." I said that "20 minutes are bit too much for me to catch up, but well see. It is only a five mile to go." I finally took a glance at my watch and quick calculation about finishing time under 33 hours. I had 95 minutes to be under 33 hrs mark. I thought I got a chance as long as not stop myself. I kept my pace probably around 15 min/mile pace from there to mineral creek. When I crossed mineral creek, the camera man was bit surprised himself and asked me that I was a runner or not. I was confused about that question but soon realized that my bib number was hidden by my backpack. The silly part that he asked me was to go back in the creek to cross it again for a better photo shot. I giggled about that first, but I said to him that I wanted to finish this race and do not want to go back in the river. My focus was sorely on to finish under 33 hour mark now.
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| The last river crossing at Mineral creek. I'm still smiling! |
I crossed HWY 550 and continued jogging at trail section for another 5 minutes or so. I then spotted a runner in front of me walking. I was bit of shock to myself catching up the guy who were supposedly 20 minutes ahead of. I was almost running pace of 9 to 10 minutes per mile at that flat trail section and flew by the runner. ( I found myself later that runner was Glenn Mackie.) The clock was ticking only 18 minutes to spare, and I did not want to stop this momentum even the last hilly gravel road. At the top of the hill, I can see a whole town of Silverton on my right side. I finally came back to this historic old mining town. It was longest journey of 100 mile race I ever experienced. The last short single track downhill to connect between gravel road to in town went fast. It was just two blocks away from Silverton High School. My legs were burning. My chest was screaming. My eyes were tearing for no reason. I was not be able to run straight anymore. Every spectators cheered me on for finish, and I had to run for it. I was telling myself that "Do not stop until kissing the rock. I can crash myself afterward to let go this agony and pain." I turned the last corner to spot the beautiful rock again. The official clock just above the rock was still ticking on 32:49:52. I wasn't slow myself down at all and just went for the rock with good speed. Throw my trekking poles on the ground and went "Bam!" I kiss the rock. Then I felt myself down on the ground catching my breath with crying eyes.
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| A block away from Silverton High school! |
I finally woke up my body but still sitting on the ground. When I lift up my face to see RD Dale, he was smiling back and asked, "well, that was not expected. How was it for the course?" I had so many things went by in my head from my supporting crews, pacer, many peaks, Ouray, Kroger's Canteen, lightnings, hail storm, and so forth. But my replied answer was bit dumb and simple. "It was so hard." I could not even grasp a whole experience of the race at that point. It was so much experiences just went through my 33 hours of racing. It required me some time to chew on these experience.
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| Finisher's medal on me. With RD Dale Garland |
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| Congratulate each other with Darla Askew |
I congratulated each other with Darla, Chris, and Meghan with little hug. Lastly, I deeply appreciated my pacer Meghan who raced WS100 just two weeks before the HR100. Her supporting and mentoring especially during night run helped me to keep myself motivate to reach my only one major goal for this race. "Not DNF and kiss the rock". I appreciated Sean and Gary for supporting crew at Grouse Gulch AS. I appreciate Darla and Chris Askew for week long mentoring and studying the course before the race. I probably could not cover the 75% of HR course without them. I thank all volunteers at HR100 to put huge effort to make runners comfortable and uplifted during the race. I thank Hardrock Board members to organize this wonderful race. And I would like to say huge thank you to RD Dale Garland for continuing legacy of Hardrock 100 endurance run.
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| Sunday morning breakfast and commencement for HR100 |
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| RD Dale Garland and Lois Mackenzie dressed with gown |
So nobody knows what your future would be, but a running race like Hardrock 100 endurance run will change your mind a little bit. You would appreciate what nature can offer. You will undergo so many emotional and physical challenge to overcome for just finishing the race. But in the end, I can almost tell that you are smiling, humbling, and gathering with all hard rockers. Do I want to go back and do it again? Absolutely! The strong bonding with all trail runners at HR100 ties this running community in new style and a different type than many other ultra trail races I've experienced. It is just so Special.
Thank you.
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