Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Love from high country 1 (2013 Hardrock 100 pre-race)

A day I saw pictures of San Juan Mountain national forest and 2011 Hardrock 100 event from ultra-running friend, Ken Ward, who was just finished his trip to Colorado and came back in his hometown of Corvallis, OR. When I saw his photos, I thought they were so unreal scenery for me almost like an one scene from the Load of Ring movie. Ken explained to us an each picture where it was taken from. While I was listening to his experience at Hardrock, I was shocked that runners had to go through more than 33,000ft of accumulative elevation gain and loss and had to run at the elevation between 7,700 to 14,000ft. It was beyond my comprehensive knowledge and experience to imagine how running at 14,000ft could affect runners' body.


Beautiful Ice Lake near South Mineral Creek Campground, SJMNF near Silverton, CO
Since the day I saw his photos of San Juan Mountain national forest, running Hardrock 100 was on my bucket list to check off the box before kick the bucket. It is always in my mind to do the run someday, and that Hardrock 100 would be an ultimate challenge to human body and mind to conquer the distance of "100 mile".  However, I had no experience to any 100 mile trail race before. Clearly, I was an inexperienced trail-runner who needed to work on myself a lot more about studying the sport of ultra-running. I knew that I had to carefully plan myself and to contribute my time for next few years to build up what it takes me to conquer the distance of "100 mile". I started to look into the information of Hardrock 100 from the website and learned the qualification standards and processes to enter the race. At that point, my chance to turn in my first application to enter the lottery system for the race will be  two years from now. I had to run and complete one of qualified 100 mile races that was listed on the web in 2012. Unfortunately for me, I already postponed myself running TRT100 in 2011 event due to my left piriformis muscle injury in early 2011.  If I can complete TRT100 in 2012 event, this would cover the Hardrock qualification standard and can be able to send off my application to 2013 Hardrock lottery.
Almost crossing the finish line of TRT100, 2012

A year later, I finished TRT100, which was not so beautiful way but gave me a lot of take home messages myself to the high altitude running. Where there TRT100 was good or bad, my primary check list to Hardrock qualification was checked off, and I was ready to download application form from the website, filled up the form, and mailed in it from Melbourne, Australia. (At that point, I was visiting my parents living in Melbourne, Australia). I remembered David, who became my running friend shortly after Great Ocean Walk 100km race, and I were pretty excited about WS100 lottery on early December. Unfortunately, both did not get in 2013 WS100, which I had about 22% chance to be picked. Experiencing from losing lottery for WS100, I wasn't expected to be picked my only one ticket at Hardrock 100 lottery day, which was only 2.18% chance to be selected for having only one ticket to enter the 1 out of 35 slots. I had somewhat expected to be experiencing such disappointment on lottery day, so I did not even watch the actual event on Twitter feed on live.
Beautiful city Melbourne, Australia
2012 GOW100km, Australia. Photo by Brett Saxton, all rights reserved. 

The day Hardrock lottery took a place on very early morning of Dec. 16th at eastern Australia time, I woke up around 7:00 am and looked through my E-mails via my iPad. One of the title from April wrote me that "Mikio!!". stopped my scrolling finger and tapped the title with full of question mark in my mind. She wrote me that "Congratulations!!  Does this count as a Corvallis Runner?  I think so!!" Now this message was really confused me what exactly she was talking about. I thought I need a cup of coffee first to solve this mysterious message from her, but I soon clicked my brain that this message was all about Hardrock. 

"You got to be kidding me. I only had one ticket less than 3% chance to win this."


 I went a kitchen to make a cup of coffee while my Macbook Pro started up and showed logging in screen. (Yap, I was still sleepy head, which I could check it out with my iPad.) I quickly opened Hardrock website and looked through Twitter feeds scrolling through the tweets to look for my name. There, I found my name on the screen. No joke. I was really selected to participate 2013 Hardrock 100! I could not even think straight to beat the statistical chance to be selected. "How lucky I am. This may be my last and only chance to do the Hardrock 100. " This exciting news clearly uplifted my emotion that day, but soon I need to figure myself out for financial strength and available resources to actually do so. Since I quit my former job as a horticulture research assistant at Oregon State Univ. in end of June, 2012, I was in the processes of applying a new job in Japan. However, it was easy choice for me to weight between a potential job versus participating Hardrock100 on a scale. I quickly changed my course of action to focus on 2013 Hardrock 100 mile race with my 100% commitment. 

I just found out I was selected to 2013 Hardrock! (Melbourne, Australia)

My training field needed to be changed again from sunny spring days in Australia (December) to snowy cold winter in Japan due to reaching maximum staying period with my travel visa. I had to compromise training strategy a lot more on the road running during winter months than trail running. I was bit surprised that many historic old trails were forgotten already and were abandoned many places in Japan. There were no exception to that at my parents' hometown where was a rural and mountainy ski resort area. The length of trails were somewhat short and steep because these trails did not have many switchbacks and rather did go straight up following the ridge lines to the top of mountain. Unfortunately, there were not even one trail runner living in that area or even never heard about trail-running, so I had to figure myself out connecting some historic hiking routes, forestry jeep roads, and paved roads to make a 15-20 mile loop around the town. Another problem that I had to compromise myself was elevation. The location I lived was just 800ft above sea level, and the top of local mountain was just below 2600ft. Since I did not own a car, I had to travel with a rental car to get a one of highest peak around the mountains, which was 8865ft at the top. However, there were full of snow left at the peak in early month of June. So I had to compromise myself to go with one of lower mountain nearby, which was only 5600ft at the top. There were no where near the elevation of 14er mountains in Japan. Ever since I finished TRT100 in terrible way, I took myself seriously about altitude as "a take home message". If I be the position to have acute altitude sickness again at the Hardrock, I would not stand a chance to even finish the race. I needed more than two weeks to acclimate such high country in San Juan Mountain national forest. Luckily, I do not have a job to hold me back for my time frame now. 

No more nice weather :( Snowy hiking in January 2013 (Gujo, Japan).
Last trail run before heading up to USA, Gujo, Japan

Despite lacking any sport massage therapists, physical therapists, and licensed chiropractors in my hometown, my training regime was clearly mixed with running, biking, hiking more than before. My foam roller, sticks, massage ball brought back from USA were my best friends to prevent any serious injuries for staying Japan for last 6 months. (I admit I need to do more yoga to stretch my muscle especially hip area.) Also lacking right equipments such as trail running shoes, nutrition, salt, etc. were another issue I had to compromise with whatever resources are available in the area. Fortunately, my friend sent me three pairs of shoes to keep me going my training. It was tough not even accessible to essential equipment for running and trail running for ultra. 

Volunteering work at one of AS at UTMF 2013. View of Mt. Fuji 
Three Sisters, near Bend, OR

When I finally arrived at Silverton, CO on June 25th, my nervousness about getting myself into the high country was changed to excitement just because I had counted on the days to come this moment in Japan for long time. I was happy that I can slowly acclimate the altitude for next 17 days to be ready for the race day. During my stay at San Juan Mountain national forest, I realized that there were many free camp sites in the area up to 14 days of stay in the same site. It is very cool thing for travelers who want to save some money but still take full advantage to enjoy in wildness area. Despite that the lady who works at the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) was represented by Hardrock RD at pre-race briefing for being great relationship with BLM local officers and shown his gratitude to use a land for Hardrock 100 race. Although there were extensive mining history behind the area from 1880 to 1990 (Dakota Jones wrote the history in the area called "A Totally Serious History of Silverton, Colorado" at iRunFar.com), the BLM tries to environmentally conserve this wildness area for many wildlife from plants to animals. 
Full bloom of wild flower and Marmot at SJMNF, Colorado.

Many old and historic mining sites are now for tourists' attraction. Since Silverton, CO is neither an industrial nor agricultural town at all, the major source of income for residences in town relies on tourism during summer and winter attractions. It is difficult for residence not having steady income to live through out the year. In living high country, scenery is beautiful out there but far tougher condition to live there than you can imagine. Harsh climate condition with poor soil structure makes even difficult to grow vegetables and fruits locally, the source of food in the grocery store limits what are available for residents. If you want to have better fresh produces, you have to drive to Durango, which is about 50 miles south of Silverton. 

Downtown Silverton, CO
Summer tourists from Durango are important source of income to the town.
The distillery Montanya, Downtown Silverton, CO.

One program that I was very impressed with Hardrock 100 endurance run was a scholarship program to continue higher education opportunity to senior high school students and freshman college students in San Juan Mountain National forest area. The program is based on generous donation from trail runners, volunteers, and local community to raise the money for young scholars continuing their education. We all know how costly in college education in US is, but higher education at colleges and universities is beneficial to him/her life later on. Unfortunately, there are bit of disconnection between educations and required highly skilled level in many jobs nowadays. The companies offer the job to recent college grads requires more special skills than used to be. Students need to raise their bar to achieve such special skills to respond companies' high standard, which I think anyone wants to have your dream job requires some effort to earn the skills. However, I think experiencing and graduating from college gave me an many opportunities and new networking that are very important for myself even today. (So please do not think going to college is overrated.) This scholarship program felt me that Hardrock is not just only an one of trail ultra race in the US but also raising a bar themselves to their local community for what we can possibly do to young people opening up their future.

Hello, My name is Billy Bob! So classic.
Tourist attraction for old mine site near Silverton, CO.


I spent last 10 days with Darla and Chris Askew studying Hardrock course for good 60 to 70%. This gave me more comfort and reduced mental challenge at the day I was in the race. Many places to hiking  or jogging, seeing wildlife, and wildflower meadow with full of color with paintbrushes, blue columbine and more. While we were hiking together at Bear creek near Telluride to Oscar's pass, we met Hans-Dieter Weisshaar near the top of climb. He is very humble and soft spoken person but he started ultra running in USA when he was 58 years old. He has completed 130 of 100 mile races in USA so far, and his age is 73 this year. What struck me about him was that he carries very minimal gears in Colorado's high country wildness. He only carried his 12oz plastic cup for drinking water straight from springs, one walking pole, and rain jacket with few foods in his pockets. He was already hiking into near 15 miles and continued to go over the pass via 630RD from the town of Ophir to get HWY550 to meet up with his wife. What a bad-ass man he is. Although he claimed himself slow hiker, I think he is far mentally tougher than us with carrying full of food, water, and gears. He was even enjoying the view of untouched wildness in south western Colorado. I was so pleased to know little bit about him that day. I was admired by his own philosophy about exploring wildness via ultra running for full enjoyment. He mentioned that an ordinary man completed one of toughest 100 mile race in USA become a special person, like a super hero. His physical and mental toughness are far stronger than I do, and I sincerely appreciate him competing Hardrock 100 at his age as my raw-model to be beautifully aging and continued challenging the life.
Volunteering a Course marking at day one.
Is this in Heaven? KT to South Mineral Creek
Near Red Mountain.

Less than a week to go for the race day, Darla and I were studying course near Silverton to Cunningham over 9 miles. The course was beautiful, but tough uphill started from 3 miles in the course. At midpoint of uphill right before the little giant basin with two mining reservoirs, one mountain goat was coming down from the jeep road. Although we had no crew what the hell this lone mountain goat was doing himself, he was clearly not so happy when he approached to us closer than 6ft distance. His solid pair of horns was shinny and sharp weapon proudly showing off by this devil goat, which can easily get us in trouble. He lowered his head down to show his pointy horn toward to us was already a bad news bear. We brought up trekking poles to make a noise that would hopefully scare him and hesitate to attack on us. We knew that the carbon fiber Black Diamond Z-pole was not be able to fight against his shinny horns if he seriously charged on us. We managed to get away from him in distance of 30 to 40 feet, but this guy was chasing after us. Fortunately or unfortunately, his attention toward to us switch to a camper who already fought with this guy earlier. I guess we brought back this goat to his camp site again creating more trouble. Other hiker told us that this devil mountain goat destroyed the camper's portable table and chairs already. No wonder why this mean mountain goat was already agitated by.  

Darla Askew walking next to old mine hut.
The feisty mountain goat. The bad-ass devil!

After the mountain goat event was over, we finally passed over the little giant pass and descend next 2 miles or so to the Cunningham campground. By the time we get back to the car, I was already exhausted and open the rental car's doors and trunk. I found food and beer for late lunch at campsite. I quickly emptied out my first IPA and figured to have another. Now trouble comes. I cannot find a key for this rental car. Badly, this 2012 Toyota Camry locked itself if I do not open the door for few minutes after unlocking the doors. I realized that I put my car key right next to beer cans in the trunk when I grubbed a first can of beer. I locked the key in the trunk myself even though I push the button to open the car doors. I knew one day I would do such stupid thing to this car. Although I had full insurance to cover the damage, the policy did not covered for a road side assistance. Thank you to Darla and Chris who took me to the town of Silverton with 20 minute of driving, and we scavenge few free pamphlets, bought weed puller for garden at the grocery store, and find a shop to borrow long metal strip. The old man who lives in Silverton had nice shop for his metal work, and he kindly letting me to use his metal strip for few hours. He even bend the end of metal strip for me. Now we drove back and tried to unlock the car like a MacGyver action style. 


1) wedge the passenger side of door with weed puller to have enough room for a two folded pamphlet to wedge in the tiny opening.


2) slide the 6 ft long metal strip into two folded pamphlet carefully. The paper pamphlet protect scratching the door panel and metals. 


3) Now you will carefully operate the metal strip to push the unlock button at the driver side door panel. 


result? Failed after 30 min of effort due to the unlock button was convex shape instead of the concave shape. Sliding it more than actually pushed it. 


With Darla and Chris's suggestion about trying to pull trunk lever from the driver's side floor, I switched from the passenger side to driver's side of door. Now I tried to slide down the metal strip down from the driver's side, I accidentally touch the lock right above the door lever. This looks far more potential than reaching all the way down to the bottom of the floor. Darla was waiting to pull the door, and my second attempt beautifully hook the locking button to pull off to unlock the door. One hour of effort paid off! I felt such accomplished victory and opened trunk to retrieve my stupid rental car key. One thought came to my mind right after retrieving my key was that it was useless rental car company gave you two sets of automatic remote controlled keys tied together with cable. Why cannot I separate two keys easily? It rather attached together with indestructible cable?  Now I know I can open 2012 Toyota Camry with few tools! Call me an emergency MacGyver locksmith! I brought back the metal strip to the shop owner and his grand son was working on something. I gave him small amount of money for appreciation and saving me paying whole chunk of money to road side assistances. I felt good and kind people living in Silverton. Thank you!

The day before the race. My pacer Meghan Arbogast joined me. 

21hrs to go!

My time spending at San Juan Mountain National Forest was running out. The race-day is only few days away, and my mental state for this race is rather calm. I have a solid idea for what I will go through the course, and I have an awesome pacer 'Meghan Arbogast a.k.a. Queen" to accompany the tough high country running and hiking through the night time with her. I felt my comfort toward to the race was like a home. (Although I felt more of home considering long lived Corvallis, Oregon than Gujo, Japan.)

This is amazing work! Darla is  ready for the race! 

Will see her smiling face for most of her race at her second Hardrock 100! 
The race day was near. I have only one goal at this time, which was "kiss the rock no matter what I have experienced through from the race".
Jogging at 11,000ft after two weeks of acclimation of the elevation. Amazing!
Beautiful wildflowers! Eye catching everywhere in early July. Do not fall though.

Life is too short. Why not enjoy the moment while I can.