Love from high country 3 (2013 Hardrock 100)

On Saturday

My clock was already past midnight of early Saturday morning, and there were no signs of lights brighten up my surroundings.  My pacer, Meghan Arbogast, and I continued power-walking uphill for long 8.9 mile stretch of uneventful jeep road section to approach the Governor basin Aid Station (AS).  Despite 3000 ft gain from the town of Ouray (7700 ft) to Governor basin AS (10780 ft), it took me more than 2 hours.  I knew this would be the longest uphill section for whole way up to Kroger's Canteen (13100 ft) with total miles of 12.1 miles, but I wished to be little faster and better performance to gain the milage.  When I finally arrived at Governor basin AS, I even did not realized about 18 hours elapsed already for 64.5 miles since the start.  I had some vegetable mix soup and breads filled my stomach with warmth.  Surprisingly, my stomach was not acting bad at all even after 64.5 miles in the race.  Based on my two previous 100 mile races in 2012, I was always lost my appetite to any AS foods at this point.  This was so unlike me and my first time ever to experience being healthy stomach and peeing normally.

Long jeep road toward to Governor basin

The next 3.2 mile section with 2320ft elevation gain was never had a chance to study earlier.  The unknown territory in the night running is much scared, and my confidence level was dropped.  Shortly after crossing the small stream of cold water on the jeep road, my pacer and I were lost the way at the small junction that I could not find any course markings nearby.  As I expected to face this kind of minor problem, our decision was to go back to the last AS for gathering correct information rather than getting us completely lost in the mountain.  We decided to go backtracking the course to last aid station that hopefully find us the right way.  Luckily, Rob Youngren was right behind and navigated for us. He had done this section before and guided us to back on the track to the Kroger's Canteen.  The course marking we found was way up from the last confused junction.  We chatted with Rob a little bit, and he mentioned that the last 500 feet of steep chin scraper ascend feels like a lasting forever to get to the Kroger's Canteen AS.  He gradually pulled himself away from me, and he was already 100 yards ahead of the jeep road.  I was bit too tired to keep my pace up with him, and soon I lost the sight of his headlamp anywhere nearby.  With exception of two small headlamps between me and Meghan, there were no lights surrounding in the deep dark space.

Although the course markings used at Hardrock were reflectible to beam of light, I could not find any of these as soon as hit the steep chin scraper section.  My navigation skill was limited by following some foot steps of trail-shoe tracks on the wet muddy ground, which was hopefully the right call.  Meghan asked me from few feet behind me that "Are you sure this is right way?"  Although I did not have any confidence to answer that question, I forcefully answered, "I think this seems right way because there were bunch of foot traffics on the ground."  Those foot steps went straight up and disappeared, and I continued to ascend on loose muddy stairway like trail.  My foot placements were bad enough to slip few times, like a two steps up and one step down.  Even though I was moving like a turtle, my breathing got harder and shorter than ever before.  I saw a small ledge of bedrock within 7 ft of distance above me and hoped to rest myself there for catching my breath a bit.  I was already exhausted to continue stepping forward on this steep uphill.  The flat rock ledge was within few more steps of reach, but I got light-headed myself to see a bunch of flashing stars on my eyesights.  This made me losing my momentum, and my center of gravity shifted from front to backward.  I was started to losing control and my hip gradually pulling my whole body downward.  Although there were no voice to scream in the dark, I was screaming and alarming in my head.  

"Oh, this is bad, this is bad, this is bad, stop, stop, stop!"

 All I hoped was not to fall and tumble down the steep downhill to accidentally hit my pacer where she was only 10 ft behind me.  My last chance was to grab my trekking poles very tightly and knee down to the ground, and I held my weight shifting in balanced position to bring myself back to forward position.  I somehow managed myself to avoid the worst case scenario and waited for few more seconds to disappear flashing stars on my sight.  I finally stepped forward and got on the ledge of giant bedrock to rest myself with huge relief.  I caught up my breath for few more minutes to reduce my pounding heart rate and sweating from fear.  I looked up the steep hill hopefully see the summit or brightness from AS, but the beam of headlamp was only shown a bunch of boulders nearby and disappeared into the dark.  I regain my motivation to move forward pushing my quad muscle hard.  When I finally reached the false summit, the blight light illuminated tiny silhouette of people who were moving around at the top of ledge. I saw the Kroger's Canteen AS.  The summit was near.  The AS crew retrieved my name somehow, maybe I answered myself to one of the AS Crew asked for.  I could not remember. But he cheered up with ringing cow bell and "Come on Mikio, there are Pierogies, a hot soups, and a shot of whiskey for you!"  Did I hear a word "whiskey?" I must be hallucinating because it is middle of night.  The AS crews' encouragement with ringing cowbells hard and cheering strong voices gave me willpower to keep my legs forward.  However, I tried hard to get to the AS as fast as possible, but it took me 8 minutes to move just 200 m (640 ft) of distance.  It was strange feeling when you see the AS so nearby, yet I had full effort to move forward for so slow, like a battery operated toy running out of juice.

When we finally arrived the summit of Kroger's Canteen, Scott Mills, RD of San Diego 100, offered us to sit and covered with down sleeping bags to warm us up.  He gave me a hot vegetable soup, and Roch Horton, who is 10 times Hardrock 100 finisher, offered me pierogies.  The soup and pierogies warm me up so good, and I drunk a little bit of coke to refresh my dried cotton mouth and caffeine kept me energize a bit.  This tiniest and one of the hardest locations among all AS of the race had the best and most wonderful AS crews to welcome incoming runners, which made me even more appreciated how thoughtful and care givers are there for this race.  They offered me so much more than I ever imagined.  They must haul up whole gears, water, and foods probably more than 500 lb. to keep us runners stay in warm from blowing cold wind in the middle of night.  Soon, Scott told us that "Sorry to break you the deal, but you have two minutes to get your ass up and out from this AS because another runner is already coming up."  Bummer.  It was like a kick'n us out from the best Bar in town preparing for their new V.I.P. customer. 

AS crew successfully kick our butt out from the Kroger's Canteen to return the race.  As soon as left the AS, howling winds slapped my face stealing warmth just regained from the last AS.  That made us moving fast descending steep sandy rocky surface.  Feet sunk a bit on the soft ground felt nice.  The 5 mile descend to the town of Telluride AS went by fast even though it took an hour and half for me.  We were descend about 2/3rd of distance between the last AS to Telluride, I spotted large golden colored eyes in the bush reflected by my headlamp.  Clearly these eyes were not from deer.  The distance of both eyes were too close.  I can almost tell that it wasn't like herbivorous animals.  I tried not think too much for that creature.  It maybe a bear or a big cat.  We left that location uneventfully and rough jeep road continued down.  

By the time I got the town of Telluride, whole town was sleeping except few aid station crews were still awaked for helping out in coming runners. I had my new pair of socks and shoes at this AS. When I took off my shoes and socks, my right toe was already in black and plumped.  The toe with dark purple bloody color looks more painfully than feel.  I did stub my toe with needle to depressurize accumulated blood out from it.  My blood was shooting out few feet as soon as I took the needle out from the toe, like a splatter horror movie.  I remembered that old lady near me was looked at my face with grotesque expression.  I did not care much but apologized her for being uncomfortable. Depressurize toe looked much better, and another volunteer guy gave me a magic of duct tape application. You cannot underestimate how versatile the duct tape is for ultra-trail runners.  Duct taped big toe held well for the rest of my race without peeling my big toe nail off.  One complain I had was that poor job of duct taping made my second toe blistered by scratching.  One of AS crews brought me a thick potato soup and quesadilla but my cotton mouth refused to eat that.  I tried to wash food in my mouth with more coke and gave myself up having food at this AS.   While Meghan and Meghan Hicks exchanged greetings, my face expression was probably exhausted, and Meghan H. listened from Meghan A. what my conditions now and underwent after Ouray AS.  I remembered Meghan H. cared me with a word, "Well, hopefully you will get back your energy once the sun is up."  That word was so true.  The daylight will be awaken my body biologically and mentally.  And that word gave me some hope to fight two more hours of darkness not being a stubborn runner . 

The trail section of Wasatch from Telluride had an another big climb, which was well studied earlier with Darla, Chris, and myself before the race.  My memories for conjunction at the trails were still fresh to remember most of them in the dark. While I kept moving my legs to charge the uphill, I saw James Varner, who just past me at Telluride AS.  I saw him at Sherman AS way earlier in the race. "How are you James? You came back really great."  "Yeah, I have not seen you since right after we left from Sherman AS, but I think I need to eat more so I gonna stop here for food."  "O.k, see you at the finish line." He looked bit tired, but he was uplifted to keep his motivation high.  I thought he'll kiss the rock this time. 

While I continued charging uphill to aim the Oscar's Pass, I have started to feel minor burn in my lungs.  The steep uphill force me to breath harder and shorter than normally I do, and this made hurt my chest.  I needed to stop for moment to catch my breath and hoping my chest pain goes away.  I tried not cough much but thick mucus stuck in my throat, so minimal cough to spit these out of my system.  Wasatch meadow, where was an another beautiful wild flowering meadow, was nearby, but I had to push one more time to attack this steep uphill.  Although uncomfortable sensation on my throat and chest did not go away, I kept my head down and continued power-walking with my granny gear.   The eastern sky was gradually blighted up orange to thin pink, and I can be able to see seep of sun light through the cloud at the top of the hill.  We were still in the shady cold area to feel wetness from morning dew on the grass and wild flowers.  The reflection of the sun light on the eastern surface of the mountain looked so shiny, and almost I can feel the warmth of sun by just looking at it.  I remembered the word from Meghan H. earlier at Telluride AS that really meant me awakening my body.  It was indescribable how, but my energy level came back as soon as I was at sunny Oscar's Pass.  The time for resurrection to my body and soul.  It's a new day!   The time was just past 7 am, and I was ready for more jogging down the rocky descent to Chapman Gulch AS.  

Until recently, my fellow ultra trail runners from Australia, Brendon Davis and Shona Stephenson, described about running in the night.  Both are experienced ultra runners who were even experienced some impatience, tiredness, and hallucination sometimes from the night running.  The night running may increase potential fell down more, and it was likely caused by tiny obstacles like twigs, rocks, small tree roots rather than that you can obviously visible objects by your headlamp like big tree roots, rocks, and logs.  Because of our body wants to naturally shut down for requiring some rest (sleep) during the night, the lack of sleep may intensify use of mental awareness to your surroundings in close range. Unfortunately that makes more mentally tiring and lose your awareness much quicker. Fighting for sleepiness by forcefully insist on your body (or muscle) to keep awake but not your brain.  I think running durning the night needs to take some practices in training to know how your body responded by this kind of stress.  Also the limiting visibility makes my run much slower than during a day time.  I guess strong fast runners may have a high level of self control to battle against sleepiness and lacking visibility.  I wondered top runners would even slowing them down their momentum and speed at night. 

Look over Oscar's Pass from Grant-Swamp pass

We arrived at Chapman Gulch AS just 8 am for quick stop and go.  Candice Burt was asked me about where James was, and I replied her he must be just behind us because we past him on the ascent of Wasatch Trail.  We continued on the trail to famous grant-swamp pass.  I was already thinking in my head at this point, "two more major ascends and done. Let's finish it." My whole body was probably tired still, and my legs were heavy and painful, but I had one goal to focus myself at this point.  Kiss the rock.  This most simple goal gave me uplifting energy even more, and I did not feel much of the pain went through my legs and lungs.  We approach the final ascent of grant-swamp pass where it look like a 35 degree wall of scree and rock face.  At the same time,  Jamil Coury (I would call him the man of Fenix) just pass me by and kept his light legs to climb up the wall very quickly.  I was so impressed him and followed the way he approached his ascend.  I was unexpectedly climbed well to get up the top of grant-swamp pass.  

Famous Joel Zucker Memorial at Grant-Swamp pass

Long descent to KT

The time was almost 10 am, long descend from the pass to KT AS went effortlessly, and my leg endured downhill without any problems.  I was smiling on my face thinking about the finish.  When I arrived at KT AS,  I had vegetable soup and PBJ while my pacer to catch me up.  When my pacer arrived at KT, she said she'll find a ride back to Silverton and was done today.  We exchange words and promised to see her at the finish line.  I had only one more big climb to go, and stormy dark clouds were just started to roll in the Cataract-Porcupine pass.  Time to go.  Passing a cold stream felt good on my legs, and long ascend went o.k.  By the time I was almost near the top of the pass, the rain became a hail, which was first time hailed on me for last two weeks of stay in this area.  Thunder and lightnings were on few miles away from me.  I thought it was the last slap on my face by nature to show some temperament character.  The heavy rain/hail storm lost the sight at the meadow section toward to Putnam-Cataract Ridge.  I kept move my legs nothing stops me at that point.  My promise to finish the race was much stronger will than one stormy weather.   Luckily the lightnings were still away from me, so the moving was the right call.  

Beautiful meadows at Cataract-Porcupine pass to Putnam-Cataract Ridge

When I arrived at Putnam basin on 1:25 pm, the weather already turned nice summer day mixing with few clouds.  Aid station crews asked about any help, but I did not want to lose my momentum and focus, so I had one gulp of coke and continued on downhill.  One of AS crew said that "you can catch up with a guy just passed by, um, maybe 20 minutes ago? But he was not look so good and walking."  I said that "20 minutes are bit too much for me to catch up, but well see. It is only a five mile to go."  I finally took a glance at my watch and quick calculation about finishing time under 33 hours.  I had 95 minutes to be under 33 hrs mark.  I thought I got a chance as long as not stop myself.  I kept my pace probably around 15 min/mile pace from there to mineral creek.  When I crossed mineral creek,  the camera man was bit surprised himself and asked me that I was a runner or not.  I was confused about that question but soon realized that my bib number was hidden by my backpack.  The silly part that he asked me was to go back in the creek to cross it again for a better photo shot.  I giggled about that first,  but I said to him that I wanted to finish this race and do not want to go back in the river.  My focus was sorely on to finish under 33 hour mark now. 

The last river crossing at Mineral creek. I'm still smiling! 

I crossed HWY 550 and continued jogging at trail section for another 5 minutes or so.  I then spotted a runner in front of me walking.   I was bit of shock to myself catching up the guy who were supposedly 20 minutes ahead of.  I was almost running pace of 9 to 10 minutes per mile at that flat trail section and flew by the runner.  ( I found myself later that runner was Glenn Mackie.)  The clock was ticking only 18 minutes to spare, and I did not want to stop this momentum even the last hilly gravel road.  At the top of the hill, I can see a whole town of Silverton on my right side.   I finally came back to this historic old mining town.  It was longest journey of 100 mile race I ever experienced.  The last short single track downhill to connect between gravel road to in town went fast.  It was just two blocks away from Silverton High School.  My legs were burning.  My chest was screaming.  My eyes were tearing for no reason.  I was not be able to run straight anymore.  Every spectators cheered me on for finish, and I had to run for it.  I was telling myself that "Do not stop until kissing the rock.  I can crash myself afterward to let go this agony and pain."  I turned the last corner to spot the beautiful rock again.  The official clock just above the rock was still ticking on 32:49:52.  I wasn't slow myself down at all and just went for the rock with good speed.  Throw my trekking poles on the ground and went "Bam!"  I kiss the rock.  Then I felt myself down on the ground catching my breath with crying eyes. 

A block away from Silverton High school!

I finally woke up my body but still sitting on the ground.  When I lift up my face to see RD Dale, he was smiling back and asked, "well, that was not expected. How was it for the course?"  I had so many things went by in my head from my supporting crews, pacer, many peaks, Ouray, Kroger's Canteen, lightnings, hail storm, and so forth.  But my replied answer was bit dumb and simple.  "It was so hard."  I could not even grasp a whole experience of the race at that point.  It was so much experiences just went through my 33 hours of racing.  It required me some time to chew on these experience.

Finisher's medal on me. With RD Dale Garland

Congratulate each other with Darla Askew

I congratulated each other with Darla, Chris, and Meghan with little hug.  Lastly, I deeply appreciated my pacer Meghan who raced WS100 just two weeks before the HR100.  Her supporting and mentoring especially during night run helped me to keep myself motivate to reach my only one major goal for this race. "Not DNF and kiss the rock".  I appreciated Sean and Gary for supporting crew at Grouse Gulch AS.  I appreciate Darla and Chris Askew for week long mentoring and studying the course before the race.  I probably could not cover the 75% of HR course without them.  I thank all volunteers at HR100 to put huge effort to make runners comfortable and uplifted during the race.  I thank Hardrock Board members to organize this wonderful race.  And I would like to say huge thank you to RD Dale Garland for continuing legacy of Hardrock 100 endurance run. 

Sunday morning breakfast and commencement for HR100

      

RD Dale Garland and Lois Mackenzie dressed with gown

So nobody knows what your future would be, but a running race like Hardrock 100 endurance run will change your mind a little bit.  You would appreciate what nature can offer.  You will undergo so many emotional and physical challenge to overcome for just finishing the race. But in the end, I can almost tell that you are smiling, humbling, and gathering with all hard rockers.  Do I want to go back and do it again? Absolutely!  The strong bonding with all trail runners at HR100 ties this running community in new style and a different type than many other ultra trail races I've experienced. It is just so Special.  

Thank you.       

     

Love from high country 2 (2013 Hardrock 100)

I got a one package form Silverton, CO in late March, 2014.  I wondered first but soon realized that was a finisher's coffee mug.  I brewed a cup of coffee specially for this mug to remember the race.

It has been long 9 months to finally become my best lifetime memory for finishing 2013 Hardrock 100.  In fact that my whole summer experience in 2013 was like a dream.  The experience was such wonderful and meaningful to myself being "alive".

I am probably not the only one to ask myself such question like "Why do I born and live for a life?", "What is a meaning of my life?", and "Am I be happy to satisfy in this circumstance and position, or I should look around for even better options?"  So many these philosophical questions are never be answered by my relatives and friends.  Although no matter how much I will become knowledgeable person to guide myself to be ready for answering these questions, the life always has some unexpected events to screw me around.  It's just because of the life, and I think such unexpected events makes life certainly interesting and meaningful.  The unexpected events like participating in Hardrock 100 in 2013 were the one of these better life experience than receiving promotion at the work for sure; however, two things are incomparable for its own values. 

2013 Hardrock hundred finisher mug

The race day (Friday)

The morning right before the start of Hardrock 100 was still in overcast because thunder storm rolled in late last night at the town of Silverton. The mountain was settled with inversion and the wet ground from the last night rain settled misty fog in the town.  I was strangely calm just like any other days to have a cup of  coffee and breakfast. I went Silverton High School Gym to do my final check-in before the start, and we chatted with Fitz Cahall, who is a main producer of "Duct tape then beer", for a bit. "Are you ready for this?" he asked.  "I guess, um, I don't know. Anything can happen during the race."

About 5 minutes to 6 am start time, all runners gathered up by famous hard rock a.k.a. "Kiss the Rock". High School student sing a national anthem, and RD Dale counted number backward from 10 seconds "3, 2, 1, GO!".  All 139 runners started jogging with smile and giggle on their face, I was in middle pack to see the top runners gradually pull their distance away from the rest of crowds. Soon we run into the 3 mile stretches of single track to traverse the ski resort area, this spread more runners to a congo-line.  The next jeep road section was straight up to the little giant basin.  While the first big and sustained uphill continued, the inversion clouds settled earlier this morning were already starting to evaporate to spot the town of Silverton down the valley.  There were no mountain goat to greet us this morning like the other day, but many crews are already up the basin to cheer runners.  The single track started near the top of mountain to approach the Little Giant Peak for final accent.  The view from the peak shined the next peak and meadows, like a miniature retro photograph.  I look at watch at the top of the first peak, and it was just under 2 hours elapsed.  I can still see my friend Darla Askew, who was already descending steep rocky downhill section.

Early morning descent. Still in fresh legs.

My crew/pacer, Meghan Arbogast a.k.a. "The Queen" was ready to hand over the new bottle of perpetuem at the first aid station (AS) of Cunningham Campground.  She told me that I have barely consumed water from my backpack bladder.  I had a quick bathroom stop before leaving the AS, and exchanged words with her to see her later at Grouse Glutch AS (mile 42.1) hopefully the end of the day.  The next giant uphill awaited to slow me down my power-walking pace, but I became a better user for Blackdiamond Trekking poles by months of practices to stabilize my upper body and core to reduce some stress to my big quads.  Using these trekking poles took me several months to used to it, and I think someone who has an experience with cross country skiing would be a much better user than I do.  First time I thought it would be like a downhill skiing, but it was quite different.  I often stuck with one of the pole too close to my body, and I kicked it and got tripped over accidentally.  Also I could not synchronize the timing of trekking poles and cadence of my legs resulting myself to stumble over.  I think the rhythm is the key to use the trekking poles when I ascend steep hills.  I maintained the rhythm like an elliptical trainer in a gym, kept small steps, and kept at least three point contacts to the ground with feet and poles (two legs one pole).  

When I was at the ascent of Buffalo boy ridge, I saw Mike Burke a.k.a. Bushwhacker.  He was already become a shirtless, like an usual style for seeing him at Oregon ultra trail events.  It was so nice to see runners from Oregon.  The other Oregonian runner that I finally caught up with was Darla near Pole creek AS, where trails were relatively less intense for up and down hills to maintain running smoothly.   I was able to run with Billy Simpson at the long decent right before the Sherman AS.  He is very unique character sensing nature.  He said "Do you smell that?"  The time was already past noon, and I was quite hungry for real food, and I wasn't smell something specials like food.  I replied to him "not smells any (food)".  He said "Do to feel and smell the mountain? (we're) back under timberline for fresh pine! Breath the fresh air and feel the coolness under canopies. "  I now understood.  "Um, I thought smell about food."  He then suggested that I should take time at Sherman AS for having real food because the place has the best aid station for good food. I took his word and had vegetable soup, grilled quesadilla with avocado, and the best banana pudding.  It was absolutely the best full meal I had from the Hardrock aid stations.

Me and fellow Oregonian runner, Mike "Bushwhacker" Burke

From Sherman AS to Grouse Glutch AS, your true endurance was tested at this long 13.4 mile section. There was not only its long distances between AS's but also the 14'er elevation to go over.  The view from Handies Peak was one of many scenic highlights of the race, but runners may face on rolling thunder storm if the timing went wrong.  Typically, stormy black clouds showed up the sky here and there in mid to late afternoon.  Darla and I were together uphill for most of the time, and we luckily did not hit the thunder storm at the top of the peak. Her strong legs pulled me away from last one mile of climbing, and she was already a tiny miniature size figure descending the mountain when I reach the top of the peak.  While I was descending toward to Grouse Glutch AS,  the man was laid down the top of table rock feeling weak from some stomach issues. I care the word for this weary guy named Jamil Coury, and He said fine and time will hopefully heal him better.  Jamil was an amazing trail runner known from locally.  In fact, he was able to came back from his downtime and showed his strength to pass me by near the top of Grant Swamp Pass next morning.  He finished the race under 32 hours. So he knows what he needs and takes to come back.  

While I was almost reaching to Grouse Glutch AS to see my long awaited pacer, I saw Speed goat Karl Meltzer looked painfully walking the downhill. In deed, he did his amazing 10th place finish at WS100 just two weeks earlier, his legs were still in recovery for Hardrock 100. Although the day wasn't for his day, he showed his toughness to participate the race and competed in the top group for 42 miles.  He wished me a good luck for the race when I returned to continue the race. 

View from the top of Handies Peak

The time was just past 5:30 p.m., and I found familiar faces smiling and welcoming me at Grouse Glutch AS.  Meghan, Sean Meissner, and Gary Wang helped me out changing my running shoes, re-taping feet, giving me food and drink, which I had a tasty grape leave Dolma.  Their help was like a  luxurious hotel service.  However, I can hear the rumbling sounds far out of the sky.  My pacer, Meghan a.k.a. "The Queen", and I were ready to attack the course for more.  I thank my pit crews re-charged my body so well, like I had a new pair of legs to run another 60 miles.      

The rough 4x4 jeep road continued to the Engineer Pass, and we were running away from the dark thick clouds chasing after us.  The lightnings flashed couple of times and rumbling thunder sounds reached us about 6 to 7 seconds later.  Lightly rain started soon to put us on a rain jacket just about 2 miles before reaching to the top of the pass.  I wasn't concerned about hitting rain storm as long as kept us moving at this point but was more concerned about slowed me down to approach Uncompahgre Gorge area on Bear Creek National Trail in complete darkness.  The section had slick rocks on the trail, and the left side of trail dropped 400ft to Ouray Bear Creek.  This rain drop may get even slicker rocks than in dry condition.  We did quick stop and go at the Engineer AS and continued running down the single track trail which had beautifully bloomed wild flowers meadow I could see during daylight.  Unfortunately the view was faded by light rain and twilight condition.  We crossed over the Hwy 550 tunnel just past 9:15 p.m.   The next 2.8 miles to Ouray AS was well studied before the race, so I was very comfortable with this section not confusing with many intersections on the trail.

Just after the Engineer Pass, full bloom at meadows

Bear Creek National Trail

400+ feet drop right next to the trail, probably tumbling down?

We approached town of Ouray AS 9:43 p.m. This so called "little swizland town" has spa and hot spring in the center of the town. I enjoyed stay in this public spa after long hiking the other day. The Ouray AS was another best AS for me. It was happened to see Fitz Cahall again and heared Joe Grant dropped unfortunately. Another surprise was that Krissy Moehl was there for helping out in coming runners. She was smiling at me saying "you're doing great, do you need to change anything from your backpack?" Then Julie Hook brought me my drop bag quickly exchanging fueling food and drinks. Krissy gave me my bike gloves and trekking poles back right before back in the course. What a treat! I really appreciated for hard working ladies. One of most memorable AS food here was a boiled yam. Slightly sweeter than potato go with salt makes it even better combination of taste. Meghan and I were back on the course right before 10:00 pm to charge on 10 mile long uphill section of the course.

Just leaving the town of Ouray, the course has a very thoughtful idea to experience what miner's tunnel alike. We were going through this short tunnel in complete darkness, my flashlight surprised the bat started frying around in the tunnel. Meghan was more surprised by this thick black flying object than me. We got out of the tunnel and walked over the steel bridge seeing through the deep canyon directly under the feet. The short single track was connected to the jeep road. There were nothing technical this section, but then suddenly Meghan was kissing on the ground. She fell hard enough to scratch her knee bleeding bit. "Are you okay?" I asked, "I'm fine, I fell many times on the trail. It must be aftershock from that bat pound my heartbeat". She must be still in shock from fell and bat's surprise attack. (To be sure, the bat was not physically attacked us but let's blame it). When we reached the jeep road, I was power walking as soon as increased the grade of uphill. This section was bit of boring section for me especially in the dark. The distance felt even longer than what course description was on the manual. Tranquility and complete darkness of the night made my feel much more isolated, and the remoteness of the location felt insecurity of what I was doing there. It was just walking uphill hoping to see some light brighten up my soul of fear and loneliness. We walked more than hour from The town of Ouray, we saw that there were tree and mountain face lit up by strong light. I thought that the light must be from the next AS, but it turned me around by the light from the mining site. Ghaa, what a false alam for me to blighted up my feeling. However, I remember that the real Governor basin AS is just around the corner.  We finally reached Governor basin AS just before the midnight. 

Tunnel

Inside of Tunnel

View from steel bridge right after the tunnel

Be continued to final part...

Love from high country 1 (2013 Hardrock 100 pre-race)

A day I saw pictures of San Juan Mountain national forest and 2011 Hardrock 100 event from ultra-running friend, Ken Ward, who was just finished his trip to Colorado and came back in his hometown of Corvallis, OR. When I saw his photos, I thought they were so unreal scenery for me almost like an one scene from the Load of Ring movie. Ken explained to us an each picture where it was taken from. While I was listening to his experience at Hardrock, I was shocked that runners had to go through more than 33,000ft of accumulative elevation gain and loss and had to run at the elevation between 7,700 to 14,000ft. It was beyond my comprehensive knowledge and experience to imagine how running at 14,000ft could affect runners' body.

Beautiful Ice Lake near South Mineral Creek Campground, SJMNF near Silverton, CO

Since the day I saw his photos of San Juan Mountain national forest, running Hardrock 100 was on my bucket list to check off the box before kick the bucket. It is always in my mind to do the run someday, and that Hardrock 100 would be an ultimate challenge to human body and mind to conquer the distance of "100 mile".  However, I had no experience to any 100 mile trail race before. Clearly, I was an inexperienced trail-runner who needed to work on myself a lot more about studying the sport of ultra-running. I knew that I had to carefully plan myself and to contribute my time for next few years to build up what it takes me to conquer the distance of "100 mile". I started to look into the information of Hardrock 100 from the website and learned the qualification standards and processes to enter the race. At that point, my chance to turn in my first application to enter the lottery system for the race will be  two years from now. I had to run and complete one of qualified 100 mile races that was listed on the web in 2012. Unfortunately for me, I already postponed myself running TRT100 in 2011 event due to my left piriformis muscle injury in early 2011.  If I can complete TRT100 in 2012 event, this would cover the Hardrock qualification standard and can be able to send off my application to 2013 Hardrock lottery.

Almost crossing the finish line of TRT100, 2012

A year later, I finished TRT100, which was not so beautiful way but gave me a lot of take home messages myself to the high altitude running. Where there TRT100 was good or bad, my primary check list to Hardrock qualification was checked off, and I was ready to download application form from the website, filled up the form, and mailed in it from Melbourne, Australia. (At that point, I was visiting my parents living in Melbourne, Australia). I remembered David, who became my running friend shortly after Great Ocean Walk 100km race, and I were pretty excited about WS100 lottery on early December. Unfortunately, both did not get in 2013 WS100, which I had about 22% chance to be picked. Experiencing from losing lottery for WS100, I wasn't expected to be picked my only one ticket at Hardrock 100 lottery day, which was only 2.18% chance to be selected for having only one ticket to enter the 1 out of 35 slots. I had somewhat expected to be experiencing such disappointment on lottery day, so I did not even watch the actual event on Twitter feed on live.

Beautiful city Melbourne, Australia

2012 GOW100km, Australia. Photo by Brett Saxton, all rights reserved. 

The day Hardrock lottery took a place on very early morning of Dec. 16th at eastern Australia time, I woke up around 7:00 am and looked through my E-mails via my iPad. One of the title from April wrote me that "Mikio!!". I stopped my scrolling finger and tapped the title with full of question mark in my mind. She wrote me that "Congratulations!!  Does this count as a Corvallis Runner?  I think so!!" Now this message was really confused me what exactly she was talking about. I thought I need a cup of coffee first to solve this mysterious message from her, but I soon clicked my brain that this message was all about Hardrock. 

"You got to be kidding me. I only had one ticket less than 3% chance to win this."

 I went a kitchen to make a cup of coffee while my Macbook Pro started up and showed logging in screen. (Yap, I was still sleepy head, which I could check it out with my iPad.) I quickly opened Hardrock website and looked through Twitter feeds scrolling through the tweets to look for my name. There, I found my name on the screen. No joke. I was really selected to participate 2013 Hardrock 100! I could not even think straight to beat the statistical chance to be selected. "How lucky I am. This may be my last and only chance to do the Hardrock 100. " This exciting news clearly uplifted my emotion that day, but soon I need to figure myself out for financial strength and available resources to actually do so. Since I quit my former job as a horticulture research assistant at Oregon State Univ. in end of June, 2012, I was in the processes of applying a new job in Japan. However, it was easy choice for me to weight between a potential job versus participating Hardrock100 on a scale. I quickly changed my course of action to focus on 2013 Hardrock 100 mile race with my 100% commitment. 

I just found out I was selected to 2013 Hardrock! (Melbourne, Australia)

My training field needed to be changed again from sunny spring days in Australia (December) to snowy cold winter in Japan due to reaching maximum staying period with my travel visa. I had to compromise training strategy a lot more on the road running during winter months than trail running. I was bit surprised that many historic old trails were forgotten already and were abandoned many places in Japan. There were no exception to that at my parents' hometown where was a rural and mountainy ski resort area. The length of trails were somewhat short and steep because these trails did not have many switchbacks and rather did go straight up following the ridge lines to the top of mountain. Unfortunately, there were not even one trail runner living in that area or even never heard about trail-running, so I had to figure myself out connecting some historic hiking routes, forestry jeep roads, and paved roads to make a 15-20 mile loop around the town. Another problem that I had to compromise myself was elevation. The location I lived was just 800ft above sea level, and the top of local mountain was just below 2600ft. Since I did not own a car, I had to travel with a rental car to get a one of highest peak around the mountains, which was 8865ft at the top. However, there were full of snow left at the peak in early month of June. So I had to compromise myself to go with one of lower mountain nearby, which was only 5600ft at the top. There were no where near the elevation of 14er mountains in Japan. Ever since I finished TRT100 in terrible way, I took myself seriously about altitude as "a take home message". If I be the position to have acute altitude sickness again at the Hardrock, I would not stand a chance to even finish the race. I needed more than two weeks to acclimate such high country in San Juan Mountain national forest. Luckily, I do not have a job to hold me back for my time frame now. 

No more nice weather :( Snowy hiking in January 2013 (Gujo, Japan).

Last trail run before heading up to USA, Gujo, Japan

Despite lacking any sport massage therapists, physical therapists, and licensed chiropractors in my hometown, my training regime was clearly mixed with running, biking, hiking more than before. My foam roller, sticks, massage ball brought back from USA were my best friends to prevent any serious injuries for staying Japan for last 6 months. (I admit I need to do more yoga to stretch my muscle especially hip area.) Also lacking right equipments such as trail running shoes, nutrition, salt, etc. were another issue I had to compromise with whatever resources are available in the area. Fortunately, my friend sent me three pairs of shoes to keep me going my training. It was tough not even accessible to essential equipment for running and trail running for ultra. 

Volunteering work at one of AS at UTMF 2013. View of Mt. Fuji 

Three Sisters, near Bend, OR

When I finally arrived at Silverton, CO on June 25th, my nervousness about getting myself into the high country was changed to excitement just because I had counted on the days to come this moment in Japan for long time. I was happy that I can slowly acclimate the altitude for next 17 days to be ready for the race day. During my stay at San Juan Mountain national forest, I realized that there were many free camp sites in the area up to 14 days of stay in the same site. It is very cool thing for travelers who want to save some money but still take full advantage to enjoy in wildness area. Despite that the lady who works at the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) was represented by Hardrock RD at pre-race briefing for being great relationship with BLM local officers and shown his gratitude to use a land for Hardrock 100 race. Although there were extensive mining history behind the area from 1880 to 1990 (Dakota Jones wrote the history in the area called "A Totally Serious History of Silverton, Colorado" at iRunFar.com), the BLM tries to environmentally conserve this wildness area for many wildlife from plants to animals. 

Full bloom of wild flower and Marmot at SJMNF, Colorado.

Many old and historic mining sites are now for tourists' attraction. Since Silverton, CO is neither an industrial nor agricultural town at all, the major source of income for residences in town relies on tourism during summer and winter attractions. It is difficult for residence not having steady income to live through out the year. In living high country, scenery is beautiful out there but far tougher condition to live there than you can imagine. Harsh climate condition with poor soil structure makes even difficult to grow vegetables and fruits locally, the source of food in the grocery store limits what are available for residents. If you want to have better fresh produces, you have to drive to Durango, which is about 50 miles south of Silverton. 

Downtown Silverton, CO

Summer tourists from Durango are important source of income to the town.

The distillery Montanya, Downtown Silverton, CO.

One program that I was very impressed with Hardrock 100 endurance run was a scholarship program to continue higher education opportunity to senior high school students and freshman college students in San Juan Mountain National forest area. The program is based on generous donation from trail runners, volunteers, and local community to raise the money for young scholars continuing their education. We all know how costly in college education in US is, but higher education at colleges and universities is beneficial to him/her life later on. Unfortunately, there are bit of disconnection between educations and required highly skilled level in many jobs nowadays. The companies offer the job to recent college grads requires more special skills than used to be. Students need to raise their bar to achieve such special skills to respond companies' high standard, which I think anyone wants to have your dream job requires some effort to earn the skills. However, I think experiencing and graduating from college gave me an many opportunities and new networking that are very important for myself even today. (So please do not think going to college is overrated.) This scholarship program felt me that Hardrock is not just only an one of trail ultra race in the US but also raising a bar themselves to their local community for what we can possibly do to young people opening up their future.

Hello, My name is Billy Bob! So classic.

Tourist attraction for old mine site near Silverton, CO.

I spent last 10 days with Darla and Chris Askew studying Hardrock course for good 60 to 70%. This gave me more comfort and reduced mental challenge at the day I was in the race. Many places to hiking  or jogging, seeing wildlife, and wildflower meadow with full of color with paintbrushes, blue columbine and more. While we were hiking together at Bear creek near Telluride to Oscar's pass, we met Hans-Dieter Weisshaar near the top of climb. He is very humble and soft spoken person but he started ultra running in USA when he was 58 years old. He has completed 130 of 100 mile races in USA so far, and his age is 73 this year. What struck me about him was that he carries very minimal gears in Colorado's high country wildness. He only carried his 12oz plastic cup for drinking water straight from springs, one walking pole, and rain jacket with few foods in his pockets. He was already hiking into near 15 miles and continued to go over the pass via 630RD from the town of Ophir to get HWY550 to meet up with his wife. What a bad-ass man he is. Although he claimed himself slow hiker, I think he is far mentally tougher than us with carrying full of food, water, and gears. He was even enjoying the view of untouched wildness in south western Colorado. I was so pleased to know little bit about him that day. I was admired by his own philosophy about exploring wildness via ultra running for full enjoyment. He mentioned that an ordinary man completed one of toughest 100 mile race in USA become a special person, like a super hero. His physical and mental toughness are far stronger than I do, and I sincerely appreciate him competing Hardrock 100 at his age as my raw-model to be beautifully aging and continued challenging the life.

Volunteering a Course marking at day one.

Is this in Heaven? KT to South Mineral Creek

Near Red Mountain.

Less than a week to go for the race day, Darla and I were studying course near Silverton to Cunningham over 9 miles. The course was beautiful, but tough uphill started from 3 miles in the course. At midpoint of uphill right before the little giant basin with two mining reservoirs, one mountain goat was coming down from the jeep road. Although we had no crew what the hell this lone mountain goat was doing himself, he was clearly not so happy when he approached to us closer than 6ft distance. His solid pair of horns was shinny and sharp weapon proudly showing off by this devil goat, which can easily get us in trouble. He lowered his head down to show his pointy horn toward to us was already a bad news bear. We brought up trekking poles to make a noise that would hopefully scare him and hesitate to attack on us. We knew that the carbon fiber Black Diamond Z-pole was not be able to fight against his shinny horns if he seriously charged on us. We managed to get away from him in distance of 30 to 40 feet, but this guy was chasing after us. Fortunately or unfortunately, his attention toward to us switch to a camper who already fought with this guy earlier. I guess we brought back this goat to his camp site again creating more trouble. Other hiker told us that this devil mountain goat destroyed the camper's portable table and chairs already. No wonder why this mean mountain goat was already agitated by.  

Darla Askew walking next to old mine hut.

The feisty mountain goat. The bad-ass devil!

After the mountain goat event was over, we finally passed over the little giant pass and descend next 2 miles or so to the Cunningham campground. By the time we get back to the car, I was already exhausted and open the rental car's doors and trunk. I found food and beer for late lunch at campsite. I quickly emptied out my first IPA and figured to have another. Now trouble comes. I cannot find a key for this rental car. Badly, this 2012 Toyota Camry locked itself if I do not open the door for few minutes after unlocking the doors. I realized that I put my car key right next to beer cans in the trunk when I grubbed a first can of beer. I locked the key in the trunk myself even though I push the button to open the car doors. I knew one day I would do such stupid thing to this car. Although I had full insurance to cover the damage, the policy did not covered for a road side assistance. Thank you to Darla and Chris who took me to the town of Silverton with 20 minute of driving, and we scavenge few free pamphlets, bought weed puller for garden at the grocery store, and find a shop to borrow long metal strip. The old man who lives in Silverton had nice shop for his metal work, and he kindly letting me to use his metal strip for few hours. He even bend the end of metal strip for me. Now we drove back and tried to unlock the car like a MacGyver action style. 

1) wedge the passenger side of door with weed puller to have enough room for a two folded pamphlet to wedge in the tiny opening.

2) slide the 6 ft long metal strip into two folded pamphlet carefully. The paper pamphlet protect scratching the door panel and metals. 

3) Now you will carefully operate the metal strip to push the unlock button at the driver side door panel. 

result? Failed after 30 min of effort due to the unlock button was convex shape instead of the concave shape. Sliding it more than actually pushed it. 

With Darla and Chris's suggestion about trying to pull trunk lever from the driver's side floor, I switched from the passenger side to driver's side of door. Now I tried to slide down the metal strip down from the driver's side, I accidentally touch the lock right above the door lever. This looks far more potential than reaching all the way down to the bottom of the floor. Darla was waiting to pull the door, and my second attempt beautifully hook the locking button to pull off to unlock the door. One hour of effort paid off! I felt such accomplished victory and opened trunk to retrieve my stupid rental car key. One thought came to my mind right after retrieving my key was that it was useless rental car company gave you two sets of automatic remote controlled keys tied together with cable. Why cannot I separate two keys easily? It rather attached together with indestructible cable?  Now I know I can open 2012 Toyota Camry with few tools! Call me an emergency MacGyver locksmith! I brought back the metal strip to the shop owner and his grand son was working on something. I gave him small amount of money for appreciation and saving me paying whole chunk of money to road side assistances. I felt good and kind people living in Silverton. Thank you!

The day before the race. My pacer Meghan Arbogast joined me. 

21hrs to go!

My time spending at San Juan Mountain National Forest was running out. The race-day is only few days away, and my mental state for this race is rather calm. I have a solid idea for what I will go through the course, and I have an awesome pacer 'Meghan Arbogast a.k.a. Queen" to accompany the tough high country running and hiking through the night time with her. I felt my comfort toward to the race was like a home. (Although I felt more of home considering long lived Corvallis, Oregon than Gujo, Japan.)

This is amazing work! Darla is  ready for the race! 

Will see her smiling face for most of her race at her second Hardrock 100! 

The race day was near. I have only one goal at this time, which was "kiss the rock no matter what I have experienced through from the race".

Jogging at 11,000ft after two weeks of acclimation of the elevation. Amazing!

Beautiful wildflowers! Eye catching everywhere in early July. Do not fall though.

Life is too short. Why not enjoy the moment while I can.